DUNFERMLINE PARISH

The most ancient and valuable document connected with the parish, in reference particularly to the Monastery which once flourished in it, is " The Auld Register," or the " LIBER MONASTERII DE DUNFERMLIN," commonly called the Chartulary of Dunfermline. It is a large folio MS. volume, consisting of 169 leaves of vellum, and has long been preserved in the Advocates' Library at Edinburgh. It is known to have been there at the end of the seventeenth century; but when the first Earl of Haddington (a celebrated antiquary), more than two centuries ago, used it, making a table of its contents, and taking numerous extracts from it, illustrative of the ancient tenures and forms of conveyancing of Scotland, he does not state where the Register was then deposited.

At the close of the last year (1842), this Chartulary was printed by the Bannatyne Club, as the joint contribution of seven of its members, under the editorial care of Cosmo Innes, Esq., advocate, extending, with appendices and tables of contents, to 561 pages quarto.

A table of the contents of two MS. registers is printed along with the Chartulary of Dunfermline, by the Bannatyne Club, from inventories in Lord Haddington's Collections, preserved in the Advocates' Library, and collated with the original volumes.

A History of the Town and Parish of Dunfermline was published by the late Rev. John Fernie, one of the parochial ministers in 1815, in 8vo, which contains some useful statistical information, collected with much care and accuracy, applicable to that period. It is now out of print.

Another History of Dunfermline from the earliest records down to 1828, the date of its publication, 12mo, was written by the late Mr A. Mercer, author or " Dunfermline Abbey," a poem, with historical illustrations, published in 1819, of a collection of verses in 1838, and of some fugitive pieces which appeared in the " North British Magazine" in 1804, of which he was for the short period of fourteen months editor, and in other periodicals, and who died in Dunfermline only last July 1842; a man whose abilities, education, and literary taste, had they been steadily directed to one definite object of pursuit in life, might, with his inoffensiveness of disposition, have secured for him a higher estimation, and better fortune than unhappily distinguished his latter days.

There was published also in his name, a large, " Historical and Chronological Table of the ancient town of Dunfermline, from 1064 to 1834," on a large sheet, which is an abridgement of 311 elaborate, valuable, and beautifully written MS. quarto volume, pp. 422, entitled, " Annals of Dunfermline from the earliest Records to 1833," and which was kindly prepared for his benefit by the author, E. Henderson, LL.D., F. R. A. S.

In the Advocates' Library are preserved twelve vols. 4to, bound, of the MS. collections of the late Lieutenant-General Henry Hutton of the Royal Artillery, who for many years was engaged in obtaining materials for a Monasticon Scotiae, an account of all the monastic institutions in this country, but who died (June 1827) before executing his purpose.

The earliest map of the parish, of which I am aware, is contained in a map of the sheriffdome of Fyffe, by Mr James Gordon, parson of Rothiemay, published in 1645. This was prepared from the papers of the famous geographer, Mr Timothy Pont, who took the bearings of the county, and executed draughts not only of it, but of most of the parts of North Britain and its isles. The papers, after his death, came into the possession of Mr Gordon's father, the learned Sir Robert Gordon of Straloch, through Sir John Scot of Scotstarvet, who not only recovered them, when nearly lost or destroyed through carelessness, but supplied their defects. The map is part of " Bleau's Atlas of Scotland."

A Plan of the town of Dunfermline was published in 1823, from an actual survey by J. Wood, Edinburgh; and a map of the parish included, in a very large and excellent one of the counties ; of Fife and Kinross, was published in 1828, by Messrs Sharp, Greenwood, and Fouler, London, which was republished with improvements in 1841 by Mr Frazer, Cupar Fife.

Two good engraved views, large folio, of the town or Dunfermline, are to be seen in Slezer's "Theatrum Scotire," exhibiting some public buildings now gone, as the Queen's, Constabulary, and Baillie Houses, accompanied by letter-press descriptions and illustrations, in Dr Jameson's new edition, Edinburgh, 1814. These views were probably taken about the year 1690.

These consist of 19 folio volumes, the first 6 of which contain registers of baptisms and marriages jointly, and of the remaining 13, there are 9 of baptisms and 4 of marriages, separately. With the exception of a blank in the marriages from 1745 to 1750, they are continuous from 16th July 1561, the date of the first entry, to the present period. Where the baptisms and marriages are recorded together, the latter are on the margin. Some of the old volumes are beautifully written, and the ink is black and still retains its shining quality.

There is a register of deaths from 1617 to 1657, small quarto, very distinctly and beautifully written. It was recovered by me very lately from a person into whose hands it had shortly before accidentally come. It had evidently been at one time in the posession of one of my predecessors, but it had afterwards passed from him to others not officially connected with the parish, and seems to have been altogether lost sight of.

A very accurate register of burials has been kept in a folio volume since 1833. The superintendent of the churchyard takes charge of it.

The kirk-session records consist of 11 folio volumes. The first regular entry on them is dated the last day of June 1640. The minutes for the first 45 years are very neatly and distinctly written, apparently, too, in the same hand, but abound in contractions. With the exception of a blank between 1689 and 1701, the volumes are continuous to the present period.

All these registers and records are well bound, lettered, and dated on the back, and in good preservation.

Alexander Seton, first Earl of Dunfermline, a branch of the noble family of Seton, Earls of Winton. He was the fourth son of George, sixth Lord Seton, and was born about the year 1555. Queen Mary, who was his god-mother, presented to him, " ane god-bairne gift, the lands or Pluscarty in Moray."

From the royal favour which he enjoyed on his own and his father's account, he was appointed on 27th January 1585, an Extraordinary Lord, by the style of Prior of Pluscardine, and on 16th February 1587, being then Baron of Urquhart, he was promoted to the place of an ordinary senator of the College of Justice, under the style of Lord Urquhart. He was created Earl of Dunfermline in 1605, and admitted a member of the English Privy Council in 1609. He represented the Royal Person in the Parliament held on 24th October 1612, wherein the obnoxious prelatic acts of the General Assembly, held at Glasgow in June 1610, were ratified, and the act of Parliament 1592, establishing presbyteries, is asserted to have been rescinded. In 1613 he built Pinkie House, near Musselburgh, or rather converted the old one, which was a country mansion belonging to the abbots of Dunfermline, who were at an early period superiors of Musselburgh, into its present shape, on the front of which is the following inscription, now hid by a portico, as translated into English, and which seems to savour a little of vanity :-" Lord Alexander Seton built this house, not after the fashion of his mind, but after that of his fortunes and estates, 1612." Here he died on the 16th June 1622, in the sixty-seventh year of his age, and was interred on the 19th July following, with all funeral solemnity, in his burial-place in a vault of the old parish church of Dalgety, now in ruins, on one of the small galleries of which were emblazoned the family arms.

The Right Honourable James Abercromby, born 1776, Speaker of the House of Commons 1835-39, and third son of the gallant Sir Ralph Abercromby, who was killed at Aboukir in 1801, was created in 1839 a British Baron, by the title of " Lord Dunfermline."

Broomhall Family.-This family trace their origins to Robert de Brus, a kinght of Normandy, who came over to England with William the Conqueror, and claim to be the representatives of the male line of the illustrious house of Bruce, although the exact connection with the monarchy has been lost. The lands of Broomhall, formerly Wester Gellet, about three miles south from the town of Dunfermline, appear to have been possessed, at the beginning of the seventeenth century, by Sir George Bruce of Carnock, who gave them to his son Robert. Sir George, from whom the Elgin family is descended, in a direct male line, was the youngest of three sons of Edward Bruce of Blairhall, Esq., who lived in the reigns of James V. and Queen Mary. The eldest succeeded to Blairhall, which line ended in an heiress, Mary, who married one of the family of Stuarts of Bute, and died in 1759. Edward, the second son, was an eminent lawyer, and built the house now called the Abbey of Culross, so named from its being situated near the old abbey or monastery. He was an ambassador to Queen Elizabeth in 1594, and was of much service to James VI., on his accession to the English throne. Having followed his royal master to England, he was made by him Master of the Rolls, and created Baron Bruce of Kinloss in 1603. His eldest son was killed in the duel with Sir Edward Sackville, and the son's heart is buried at Culross.

The late Earl, Thomas Bruce, succeeded his brother William Robert, who enjoyed the title only two months, and died in the eighth year of his age, on the 15th July 1771. Earl Thomas was long one of the representative Peers of Scotland ; a lieutenant general in the army; a general of the Royal Archers of Scotland ; a family trustee of the British Museum; and a member of the Privy Council. He was ambassador at Constantinople in 1799-1801, when, in his zeal for the fine arts, he rescued the marbles of the Parthenon at Athens from the destruction which awaited them, and secured them as an invaluable possession for Great Britain. Having been purchased from him by Government. for about L.30,000 a sum, however, which it is understood was only about half of what they cost him -they have been perma- nently deposited in the British Museum, and bear the name of " The Elgin Marbles." His Lordship was a liberal patron, not only of the fine arts, but of science, literature, and antiquarian researches. He established excellent schools at his lime and coal works, and was first president of the Mechanics' Institution in Dunfermline, as well as personally assisted at its formation. He was public spirited and enterprising, carrying his local improvements on his estate and works to an extent which embarrassed his private fortune. He was liberal and free from selfishness in his charities; and, in his private manners, happily blended the suavity of the private gentleman with the dignity or the nobleman. He died at Paris, on the l4th November 1841, in his 76th year, much regretted by his tenantry and work-people, by whom be was greatly esteemed. He is succeeded by his eldest son, by the second marriage, James, 5th Earl or Elgin, and 12th Earl of Kincardine, born 1811, a nobleman of very promising talents and character, at present Governor of Jamaica.

Pitfirrane Family.- This is the most ancient family resident in the parish, and has had many members eminent for their public services and private worth. The first mentioned of the family was David de Halket, proprietor of the lands of Lumphennans and Ballingall in Fife, who lived in the time of King David Bruce, whose son Philip, designed " Dominus de Ba1lingall et Lunfinnans," flourished in the reign of Robert II. and III., and acquired the third part of the lands of Pitfirrane from his cousin, William de Scott de Balweary, in 1399. To the deed of conveyance John de Torry, abbot of Dunfermline, and son of Philip, was a witness. The first of the family found to be designed by the title of Pitfirrane was David de Halket, grandson of Philip, and son of Robert, who was sheriff of Kinross in 1372. He is mentioned as early as 3d June 1404.

The first members of the family that were knighted were two sons of George Halket, who lived in the reigns of Queen Mary and King James VI. His eldest son, Robert, received the honour , from King James VI., and was served heir to his father, in the lands of Pitfirrane, in 1591. A younger son, John, was knighted by the same prince; and attaching himself to a military life, he entered the service of the States of Holland, rose to the rank of a colonel, and had the command of a Scots regiment in the Dutch service. He was likewise President of the Grand Court Marishall, in Holland.

Anne, daughter of Mr Thomas Murray, Provost of Eton, and preceptor to Charles I., and second wife of Sir James Halket, Knighted at Dalkeith, 14th June 1633, was a lady of great natural gifts, which she had diligently cultivated, and of decided religious and moral character. She was born in 1622, and, through her father's connection with royalty, was soon known at Court, where she was held in high esteem for her talents, prudence, amiableness, and benevolence, as well as strong attachment to the royal family, to whom she made herself very serviceable. She was appointed, by King Charles I. and his Queen, first subgoverness, and afterwards, on the death of the Countess of Rox- burgh, governess to the Duke of Gloucester and the Princess Elizabeth. Immediately after the death of Charles I., she found it prudent to retire for a while from court to Scotland, and resided for some time in this town with the Earl and Countess of Dunfermline, who always paid her great attention. Her scriptural. knowledge and piety, as well as uncommon activity of mind, were her prominent excellencies, of which she has left substantial evidence in some writings still extant, particularly, " Meditations on the 25th Psalm; Meditations and Prayers upon the First Week, with Observations on each day of the Creation, and Instructions for Youth." (Edinburgh, 8vo, 1778) ; with a Memoir, containing many interesting and pleasing incidents of her life. She wrote 5 books in folio, 15 in quarto, and one in octavo, all of a religious and spiritual nature. Some of her MSS. are still at Pitfirrane.

Elizabeth, second daughter of Sir Charles Halket, who was born in 1639, was married to Sir Henry Wardlaw of Pitreavie, Baronet, in 1696, and died in 1726 or 1727. She was a lady of great accomplishments, and has acquired celebrity, as being considered by many the authoress of an admired poem or ballad, entitled " Hardyknute." The present proprietor, Sir John Halket, is the seventh Baronet of Pitfirrane a commander in theRoyalNavy. His lady, Amelia Hood, daughter of Colonel Conway, descends from a branch of the Conways of Ragley, who were elevated to the peerage, as Barons, Viscounts, and Earls of Conway.

The most recent school buildings are the Burgh, Commercial, and MacLean Schools.

The following, may be noticed :-Queen Anne Street Dissenting Church, a huge building, " rearing its enormous rectilinear ridge over all the other buildings in Dunfermline, the Abbey Church itself not excepted."

Within the last sixteen years have been erected St Margaret's Church, of the United Associate connexion, 1827; behind it, the Baptist Church, 1834; St Andrew's Church, North Chapel Street, 1833; North Church, Golfdrum, 1840, which last two are both quoad sacra churches, built in connexion with the Establishment; the Independent or Congregational Church, Canmore Street, 1841, and the Episcopal Trinity Chapel, Queen Anne Place, 1842, all additions to the ornamental structures of the town, and affording comfortable accommodation to the congregations worshipping in them. A Free Church also, built of stone and slated, has been erected in Canmore Street, in the end of 1843. - But the largest, most splendid, and interesting ecclesiastical edifice of modern date, is the Abbey Church. It was begun in March 1818, and completed in September 1821. It immediately adjoins the Old Church on the east, the latter being now a porch or vestibule to it. It is of light ornate Gothic architecture, with tall handsome windows, and having a fine square tower, near the east end, 100 feet high. On the summit of this tower, instead of a balustrade of the same architecture as the rest of the building, there are the four words, " King Robert The Bruce," on the four sides respectively, in capital letters of open hewn work, four feet in height, which can be easily read at a considerable distance. These are surmounted by royal crowns, and each corner is ornamented with a lofty pinnacle. This decoration is intended to designate the place of sepulture of our great patriot King, whose ashes repose immediately beneath; but the taste and architectural effect of it are questioned by many. The interior of the church is much and universally admired, for the simplicity, chasteness, and elegance of its form and ornaments.

A Poor's House and Prison have been recently erected in the Town Green, east from the Burgh.

Births.-It is impossible to state accurately the yearly average of births, for the last seven years, since very few of the Dissenters, during that period, have recorded the births of their children in the Parish Register, and some of the parents belonging to the Establishment have also neglected to do so.

The average for 1817-1826 is 55 less than that of the immediately preceding period, while the population was upwards of 3000 more, shewing that the neglect of registrations was then rapidly on the increase, and this disproportion is still more apparent in the two succeeding periods. Of the births which occurred in 1841, when the population was 19,778, only 105 were recorded in the Parish Register; in 1842, only 89; and in 1843, up to 11th December, only 43. These results point out the imperative necessity of some new legislative enactment, for enforcing registrations of births for general purposes, as well as for the benefit of individuals. The period between 1803-1812 affords the safest data for the calculations of a political economist, especially when I state that the registrations for each year of that period were pretty uniform.

Mortality.-A very correct register of burials in the Abbey churchyard having been kept since 1833, the following is an abstract of them for ten years. A few of the funerals came from neighbouring parishes, but probably as many went out of Dunfermline to these parishes; so that the number of interments may be taken as very nearly that of deaths in the parish.

Abstract of Burials in Abbey Churchyard, Dunfermline, for ten years, from 1st January 1833 to 1st January 1842 inclusive.

Taking the average number of interments in the churchyard of Rosyth, which borders on the parish at Limekilns, to be 35 for the same period, the total average will be 407 ; and estimating the average population between 1833 and 1842 at 18,500, the average of deaths will be about I in 45 (45.45), or 2 1/5 per cent. In 1841, the population was 19,778, and the number of burials in Abbey churchyard, 513 = to about 1 in 38 (38.55), or 2 3/5 per cent., and including Rosyth (say 40), 553 = to about I in 85 (35.94), or 2 4/5 per cent.

There was an unusual mortality in 1837, owing to the great prevalence of typhus fever, measles, and what are usually named hives. Influenza, also, was very prevalent and fatal at the commencement of that year, chiefly among the aged and infirm; and it was remarked, that although many persons died of other diseases at that period, almost all these diseases assumed more or less the type of this epidemic, as an accompaniment. The number of deaths was nearly as great as that arising from cholera and other diseases in 1832 ; the former being 493, and the latter 500, of which last number there were 180 deaths by cholera alone. This alarming disease prevailed in the parish from 3d September to 1st November 1832, and partially in the March preceding. There were nearly 500 cases, although only 180 deaths.

Marriages.- In 1801, the year of the great dearth, the number of marriages , was 62, which was the same as in the year immediately preceding, . while it rose in 1802 to 81, and in 1803 to 101. In the three following years it fell, being 77, 87, and 93 respectively. In 1827, after a great depression in trade, the number of marriages was only 106, while in the year immediately preceding and following, it was 125, and in 1830 it rose to 171. The Malthusians will consider these facts, as corroborative of their theory of population.

The number of persons in the whole parish, including. North Queensferry, as nearly as can be gathered from the census of 1841,: is for the following ages,

There is one Earl (Elgin and Kincardine) and one Baronet (Capt. Sir John Halket), who generally reside in the parish. The Marquis of Tweeddale has land, and feuduties or fees arising from his heritable offices of Bailie of the Regality and Constabulary of the Lordship of Dunfermline, but no mansion-house in it. There are many individuals and families of independent fortune residing both in the town and country.

There are 38 proprietors of land, exclusive of the burgh and guildry corporations, of the yearly value of L.50 and upwards.

The average number in each family is rather more than four and a half (4.5771), or about 4 11/20.

The average number of insane and fatuous poor, either in an asylum or in the parish, for seven years from 1835-41, both inclusive, is,

Some of these eleven are in the Poor's House. There are three or four blind, and five deaf and dumb persons, belonging to the parish. One of the latter is at present receiving education at the Glasgow Deaf and Dumb Institution; and another was also taught there, both at the expense of the Rev. A. McLean's trustees. A third was educated at the Edinburgh Institution, by voluntary contributions from the parish. The people are not remarkable for any corporeal or other personal qualities. The language of the working classes is distinguished by some peculiar pronunciations and phrases, such as toll for tell; buddies for bodies ( children) ; lean ye for sit you down or rest yourselves, a false for a falsehood, belonging me for to me ; fell used in a good as well as a bad sense, as a fell or large meeting, a fell or fine boy, a fell or clever person, fell or very angry; a frem person, one not related by blood.

The habits of the people as a class are industrious and active, and, with the exception of the lowest and most dissipated among them, are cleanly and orderly. Very many of the working population have a fair proportion of the comforts of life, and advantages of society. They have good and well furnished houses, dress respectably, educate their children, and can afford to have the same wholesome and nourishing diet, as is usual in a similar class in other parts of Scotland.

Many of the weavers and operatives of all descriptions, are very intelligent and skilful At their employments, and have information far superior to their rank in life.

The inbabitants generally are a church-going people, as indicated by the attendance on the places of worship, and tbe crowds of persons who are seen going to and from these on the Sabbath. Many of the respectable middling classes are well informed on religious subjects; and although there is a great diversity of sects, and an occasional keenness in the discussion of controversial topics, there are considerable freedom and harmony of private intercourse.

It is to be acknowledged and lamented, however, that, as in all populous and manufacturing places, there are many exceptions to this favourable statement, both in respect of prosperity and character. A young weaver, from being soon able to earn a journeyman's wages, often contracts too early a marriage, which, especially if followed by irregular employment, and reduction of wages in consequence of depression of trade, as has of late years too frequently occurred, and much more by his own improvidence or dissipation, necessarily entails poverty and wretchedness. Accordingly, there are not a few journeymen weavers and their families, from one or more of these causes, living in great straits and discomfort, which they have little prospect of overcoming. As a natural result of this, there is discontent among a certain portion of the weaving class, as also other mechanics, accompanied by a keen interference in civil and ecclesiastical politics, and an anxious attempt to find remedies for their wants in the removal of real or imagined public evils, rather than in the amendment of their own habits as individuals and members of society. The cases of extreme indigence and misery arising mainly from intemperance, with its concomitant evils, idleness, profligacy, carelessness of persons and dwellings, neglect of education of children and of divine ordinances, are often very appalling and heart rending.

As to the collier population, it is well known that anciently the coal hewers were serfs to their employers, or " adscriptre glebre,"the law repealing which practice having been passed only in 1775, and made effectual by another only in 1799.

In consequence of disputes at some of the collieries in this quarter, arising out of the union-laws, the collier population has of late been very fluctuating and unsettled. But in regard to the old resident part of the workmen, especially in the vicinity of the town of Dunfermline, who did not take any prominent part in these disputes, I would say, that, generally speaking, their intellectual, religious, and moral character, is decidedly superior to that of the same class of persons in many other places.

The old practice of confining their marriages to their own class is beginning to break down, from which an improvement may be expected in many respects. But the chief feature of improvement of late years has been in education. This was generally at one time very much neglected, and hence the adult population was often ignorant and uncultivated. The cause of this deficiency was certainly in no small degree, the facility of finding easy employment with a little pecuniary gain for young boys and girls under ground, in keeping doors for ventilation, &c. a benefit which careless or dissipated parents took advantage of, to the prejudice of the education of their offspring. But, recently, at all the collieries, the payments for education are made universal and compulsory, an arrangement which has caused a much more regular attendance.

I am not aware of any distinguishing peculiarities in the character of the agricultural population of this parish. The Bothy system exists here as in other places, with its share of attendant evils. From many of the farm-servants shifting their situations frequently, they are not so well known to their ministers, as other classes of the working population. Still, numbers of them are regular in their attendance on divine ordinances, and conduct themselves with Christian propriety.

Poaching is considerably on the decrease, chiefly, it is supposed, on account of the vigilance of the rural police. In 1841, the number of persons prosecuted for offences against the game laws, in the western district of Fife, in the Justice of Peace Court, was 17; in 1842, 9; and in 1843, 6. There were, however, other cases, in which the evidence was deficient, and which were not brought to trial.

Pawnbroking has been on the increase of late. There are at present (December 1843) eleven shops, besides many private places, where the trade is understood to be carried on. None of the dealers in it are licensed, as they profess to purchase the articles deposited with them. They are styled " General Merchants or Brokers."

The staple trade of Dunfermline is the manufacture of Table Linens. In no other part of Scotland does the traffic in this article exist, although in one or two places a few looms are to be found. The trade of the town began more than a century ago, with the making of ticks and checks, which continued to be made in winter after the table-linen was introduced, which was then woven in summer. Like most other arts, it has attained its present high excellence by slow and successive improvements.

Wages were wont to be paid per yard till within these 12 or 15 years, when they came to be paid per spindle of work, which is thought an improvement, as being more simple. The gross average amount of weekly wages, as stated by the operatives, is about 10s. 6d., but with deductions for light, tear and wear, loom-rent, and dressing, the average of net weekly wages is about 8s. 6d. per week, for each loom. Journeymen receive nearly three-fourths of the income, or 7s. 6d. per week, with the deduction of a small proportion for light and twisting, amounting to about 12s. per annum, the remainder being the master's remuneration for the cost of the loom-rent, &c., and the trouble of providing and superintending the work. Taking the fine and the broad coarse goods separately, which the journeymen chiefly weave, the average of their wages will be somewhat higher than 7s. 6d. In some of the warehouses, where the finest work is wrought, the earnings are much higher than now stated.

Although the weaver has certainly lower wages now than he had twenty years ago, for working fine damask, he has much less idle time in ordinary circumstances, in consequence of the use of the Jacquard machines, and the yarn being better, not hand-spun as before, but mill-spun, which is to a certain extent a compensation. Loss of time, on a change of pattern, may be reckoned as occurring, upon an average, only once in eighteen months, but sometimes only once in two or three, or even many years, according to the pleasure of the manufacturer.

Pirn fillers can earn, if they have nothing else to do, 10d. per day, being paid at the rate of 2 1/2d. per spindle of weft. Bobbiners could earn the same amount, but do not receive usually from one warehouse more than from 4d. to 6d. per day, being at the rate of 1d. to l 1/2d. per spindle of warp, according to the weight.

The weavers have twelve hours of actual labour, upon an average.

Spinning-Mills, &c: The first spinning-mill in the parish was erected at Brucefield, about half a mile south-west from the town, in 1792, which got the second patent for spinning yarn by machinery. It span yarn from flax, hemp, tow, and wool, but has not been in operation for several years past. In July 1836 there were seven spinning-mills in operation in the parish: at present there are only five.

These mills spin chiefly linen yarn, but one of them manufactures also a great quantity of linen thread, in a state prepared for the market, and for the quality of which it has long been in great repute. The others likewise twist for thread, and some of them make a good deal of shoe thread.

There are three Iron Founderies in the parish, two on the north side of the town, and one at the iron mill, near Charleston, in all of which considerable work is done, and some brass is cast.

There are five Breweries of beer, ale, and porter, three in the town, one at crossford and another at Brucehaven.

There is one Soap-work, in which candles also are made, and a Candle-work separately.

There are two Manufactories of Tobacco, being one less than in 1841, and two less than in 1837. There are no snuff-mills ; as there were anciently, near the ruins of the monastery.

There are, on the north side of the town, two Tanning and Currying-works. There are, in or near the town, three Rope-works, and in the vicinity of Charleston and Townhill, two Tile , and Brick-works.

There are, in different parts or the parish, four Corn or MealMills; and connected with the one at the iron-mill. near Charleston, is a Saw-mill, both of which are driven by the same wheel.

There are in the town four Dye-works. There is only one Flour Mill, which is in Monastery Street, named the Heugh Mill. It was erected in 1784 or 1787, and was driven by water till 1819, when the present proprietor applied to it a steam-engine, that it might continue regularly in operation, during summer as well as winter. Since that period, the mill has manufactured, on an average, 7194 bolls of wheat annually.

Elgin Colliery.- The largest proprietor is the Earl of Elgin, who possesses a coal-field, the whole area of which, wrought and unwrought, may be stated at from 2600 to 2700 acres. The coal-seams are of various quality, and some of them, especially the deepest, are extremely valuable. Almost all the coal partakes more or less of the caking quality and soft texture of the Newcastle coal. It is easily ignited possesses great heat and durability, and produces very few ashes of a brown colour, which renders it cleanly and economical for all purposes. A new pit was completed at the end of the year 1839, 105 fathoms deep, named the " Wallsend Pit," which has entirely superseded the use of the Baldridge pit in the vicinity. It is the deepest coal shaft in Scotland, and probably one of the most valuable. It is very productive, yielding at present as much coal as all the other pits together previously did at anyone time.

 The whole quantity of coals raised at the Elgin collieries, on an average of the last five years and upwards, has been fully 60,000 tons, 40,000 of which have been exported, chiefly to the ports on the Baltic and Mediterranean Seas, the remainder being disposed of by land sale, and consumed at the Charleston Limeworks. The whole of this quantity is now produced at the Wallsend pit alone.

Wellwood Colliery.-.Immediately to the east of the Elgin is the Wellwood Colliery, belonging to Andrew Wellwood of Garvock; Esq. It is situated about a mile north of Dunfermline, and is leased by James Spowart of Venturefair and Bellfield, Esq., a very enterprising and successful coal master. The colliery was a few year's since greatly increased in value, both to the proprietor and lessee, by the erection of a powerful steam-engine for drawing the water, whereby an excellent seam of splint-coal was reached, much admired for its cleanness and purity. The coal from this work is extensively used in the town of Dunfermline and neighbourhood, and a large quantity of it is also exported to the ports on the Baltic and Mediterranean Seas, France, &c. chiefly for navigation purposes, for which it is well adapted. The steam-boats plying between Paris and Rouen are almost entirely supplied with it. There have been at times 2000 tons sent down by the Elgin railway in one fortnight.

The coal-field, including East Baldridge and Venturefair, not at present wrought, may embrace 200 acres, of which 30 or 40 are still to work. The average quantity of coals raised in 1836-1841 was 39,535 tons per annum.

Townhill and Appin Collieries.- To the east of this colliery, and about a mile and a quarter from the town, are the Townhill and Appin Collieries, the former belonging to the burgh of Dunfermline, and the latter to Mr Downie of Appin. Previous to Candlemas 1838, the burgh had its coal in its own hands, and worked only that which was at a moderate depth, and of inferior quality, which was all sold in the town and neighbourhood at a lower rate than other coal. At the period mentioned, however, an enterprising and wealthy company took a lease of it for nineteen years, commencing at that date, and by sinking new pits, so as to reach the splint coal, a greater amount and superior quality of coal are raised, so that hopes are entertained that not only the lessees, but the creditors of the burgh, will be much benefited, even that the debt of the burgh will, at no distant period, be entirely paid off. The consumption formerly was chiefly in the town and vicinity, but now there is a considerable exportation to France, Denmark, and the Baltic. The coal for exportation is now shipped at Inverkeithing, whither it is conveyed by a branch railway recently formed through the lands of Messrs Downie, Wellwood, and Main, and joining the Halbeath one at Guttergates, near where it crosses the Crossgates road.

The whole coal-field leased by the company is understood to cover above 900 acres, of which about 700 still remain unworked. All the lower seams to the north of the great dike are untouched.

The gross output of coal for several years previous to 1838 by the burgh used to be between 6000 and 7000 tons per annum. That of the company averages at present 15,000 tons.

Halbeath Colliery.-The next large and very old colliery, still farther to the east, and two and a half miles from the town of Dunfermline, is that of Halbeath, belonging to John Clarkson, Esq. The coal-field here is very extensive, comprehending, with all the portions leased from the neighbouring proprietors, several hundred acres, of which there is a large portion still to work, but the precise extent of this cannot well be ascertained, in consequence of the want of the old plans of the workings. It may be estimated, however, at above 200 acres. A valuable bed of cannel or parrot coal has been wrought in it, with much advantage of late, in supplying the Dunfermline and other gas-works.

There are other two small collieries, the Cuttlehill and South Lethan, but at present there is little coal wrought at them.

Dunfermline is a market town and royal burgh. A corn market is held at it every Tuesday for the sale of grain by sample, and is well attended by the agriculturists of the district. There is a weekly market also every Friday for butter, cheese, eggs, &c.

The burgh is governed by a provost, two bailies, a treasurer, a guild magistrate, a chamberlain, and sixteen councillors, with the assistance of a town-clerk, who acts also as legal assessor. Their election is regulated by the general amended municipal act of Parliament, dated 24th August 1833. The provost and magistrates have the usual jurisdiction, civil and criminal, belonging to magistrates of royal burghs. They hold regular courts, with the town clerk as their assessor, once every week, on Wednesday, for the disposal of police cases, and on the same day, besides the ordinary court, what is denominated " The Nine Merk Court," for the recovery of small debts not exceeding ten shillings. Upon the decreet of this last court, summary diligence can be executed. . They also hold a court twice a year for granting certificates to publicans. The provost is ex officio a justice of the peace, and sits in the courts held by the justices.

The annual revenue of the burgh is about L.1000, derived from the rents of five small farms still belonging to it, &c. The burgh pays to Government yearly the sum 0f L.78 of land-tax, or town-cess, besides a sum of L.8 or L.10, in support or the convention of royal burghs, all levied from the property of the inhabitants within burgh.

Guild Court.- Formerly the Dean of tbe fraternity of Guildry was a member of Council, and presided in this court. Now, tbe Guild Magistrate is chosen by the Council themselves, and he and four councillors form the court. Their duty is to decide upon questions relative to ruinous tenements, and disputed marches within burgh, and to attend to the correctness of weights and measures.

Police.-ln 1811, a police bill was obtained from parliament, not only for the purpose of regulating the police of the town, but of granting powers for paving, lighting, and cleansing the streets -for removing nuisances and obstructions therefrom, and for opening new and widening the present streets; and likewise for increasing the supply of water for the use of the burgh.

This act has done much good, in promoting the accommodation, health, security, and comfort of the community; and, by continued vigorous management, it may be expected to preserve and increase these important civil advantages.

A county police having been lately established, Dunfermline has been made the headquarters for the western district of the county, where an inspector and two constables are stationed.

There are a sheriff, a small debt, and a justice of peace court. Dunfermline unites with the burghs of Stirling, lnverkeithing, Culross, and South Queensferry, in sending a Member to the British House of Commons. Stirling is the returning burgh, and Lord Dalmeny the present member.

Dunfermline is a post-town. The length of the turnpike roads in the parish is about thirty-one miles. Two coaches daily leave Dunfermline for Edinburgh, and two return. A coach goes every morning to Falkirk, for the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway, and returns in the evening.

The bridges and fences in the parish are in good condition. There being no rivers, tbe bridges are small. .

There are several railroads, chiefly for the conveyance of coal; one from the Elgin and Wellwood cllieries to Charleston harbour, and another from the Halbeath and Townhill collieries to the port at lnverkeithing.

There are three harbours in, or close to the parish, belonging to the Earl of Elgin, viz. Charleston, Limekilns, and Brucehaven.

The Abbey Parish Church is situated in the town of Dunfermline, about two miles from the nearest, and six from the furthest boundary of the parish. Of course it is not convenient for the distant part of the population, for there are 1000 inhabited dwelling-houses more than two miles, one-half of which are nearly four, about 15 are further than four, and two or three are about six miles distant from the church. There is a dissenting church in two of the extreme positions-Crossgates and Limekilns.

The New Abbey Church was built in 1821, and opened for divine service on the 30th September of that year. It needed repair so early as 1834-5 from dry-rot, but is at present in excellent condition. It affords nominal accommodation for 2051 persons, but there are 552 sittings in a measure useless, from in- convenient position, 402 of these being behind either pillars or the pulpit, so that the minister cannot be seen from them; and in the rest he can scarcely be heard, on account of the echo or distance from the speaker. Indeed, the accommodation which can be considered available is only about 1400, and much of this requires and could receive improvement. Suggestions for this purpose have often been made, and some of them tried, with more or less success, but none of them have yet been adopted. There are 110 free sittings allocated to the poor, but from being considerably behind the pulpit, are quite useless, and never occupied. A few temporary forms have been placed for their use near the pulpit, which are generally well filled. This want of due accommodation for the poor has always been considered a great evil. A few of the heritors and tenants take rents for their sittings, which they do not themselves occupy. The burgh having paid a fifth of the expense of erecting the church, obtained a fifth of the area in return, and have accordingly sold several of their pews to private individuals.

From time immemorial, there had been neither manse nor pasture-ground belonging to the ministers of Dunfermline ; but there were paid to the senior minister, in lieu of the former, L.3, 6s 8d., and or the latter L.1, 13s. 4d. One of the ministers, during last century, sued for a manse, without success; but the late Rev. Allan McLean, minister of the first charge, having discovered that anciently there had been a manse, renewed the action in 1803, both for the manse and pasture-ground, and succeeded, first in the Court of Session, and afterwards in the House of Peers, on an appeal by the heritors, after a litigation of ten years. He obtained possession of the present manse in September 1816, and remuneration for the want of it. from Martinmas 1804; and for that of the grass glebe from Martinmas 1803. The deficiency in the arable glebe, caused by the manse being built on part of it, was ordered to be made up, along with the ground to be allocated for the grass glebe. An allocation took place by the Sheriff of the county on 11th July 1814, but, from various reasons, the designation of it was never completed, and the minister has not yet obtained possession. The heritors, however, paid L.24 per annum, in lieu of the pasture and deficiency of the arable glebe, till 1840, when, by mutual agreement between them and the present minister, it was reduced to L.20, and to continue at that rate till, a glebe be provided. The arable glebe is at present nearly 3 1/2 acres, and yields a rental of L.15 per annum. The manse underwent a considerable enlargement and repair, partly at the expense of the heritors, and partly of the present minister, when he entered it in 1836, on his translation from the second to the first charge. There is neither manse nor glebe attached to the second charge. The stipends of the two collegiate ministers are the same, viz. 19 chalders of victual, one half meal and the other barley, at the rate of the Fife fiars, with L.10 for communion elements each. The number of persons that communicated at the last dispensation of the sacrament, in December 1843, was nearly 500, only about 200 less than the average for these some years past, in winter, notwithstanding that the Episcopal, North Extension, and Free Churches have been opened since 1840. The number of communicants on the roll is, of course, considerably greater. The present minister of the first charge is the Rev. Peter Chalmers, A.M. The second charge is vacant.

Quoad Sacra Churches.- There are two quoad sacra churches in Dunfermline.

1. St Andrew's, which was once a Chapel of Ease. The sittings of the church are 797. There are also a house and garden. Present minister, Rev. Andrew Sutherland, A.M., admitted 28th March 1839. He has joined the Free Church.

2. North Church.-An extension church, at the east end of Golfdrum, was opened for worship in November 1840,-sittings 800. It cost L.1673, of which were raised by subscription L.1002, and received from the General Assembly's Extension Fund L.411 ; drawback on materials, interest of money, and revenue from church after being opened, L.259; so that it is free from debt. No manse or garden. Present minister, Rev. Charles Marshall, admitted June 1841,-who has subsequently joined the Free Church.

From 1839 till the summer of 1843 there was another quoad sacra church, named the Canmore Street Church, in connection with the Establishment, and formerly in connection with the Original Burgher Synod, established in 1799. Its last minister, Rev. William Dalziel, admitted to it in 1815, was inducted, in September last, minister of the church and parish of Thurso, and the congregation have connected themselves with other churches.

Free Churches.- There are at present ( January 1844) three Free Church congregations: 1. St Andrew's; 2. North church ; 3. The Abbey, (or as at first called, Abbey and Canmore Street congregations, from most of the elders and many or the people of the latter having joined the former.)

Dissenting Churches.- It is well known that Dunfermline has always been a principal seat of dissent, ever since the Secession from the Establishment of the Rev. Ralph Erskine, who was one of the parochial ministers here, and his deposition by the General Assembly in 1740, when he became one of the chief supporters.of the Associate Synod, and had a large congregation in this place; as also, since the deposition of the Rev. Thomas Gillespie, minister of Carnock in 1752, which gave rise to the forma- tion of the first Relief congregation in Scotland, in this town. The following are the churches in connection with one or other of the different branches of dissent.

There are six churches belonging tothe United Associate Synod.

1. Queen Anne Street congregation-, founded in 1743, under Rev. Ralph Erskine. Sittings, 1642. . Present minister, Rev. James Young, admitted June 1831.

2. St Margaret's, East Port, founded 1825, in consequence of a separation from Queen Anne Street Congregation, caused by a dispute about the appointment of a minister. Sittings, 979. The minister's life is insured by the congregation, for the benefit of his family, for L.500. Rev. John Law, admitted 1828.

3. Chalmers' Street; founded ,in 1788, formerly of the Antiburgher Synod. Sittings, 430. No house or garden, or other provision.

4. Maygate, founded in September 1832, by a separation from the Chalmers' Street Congregation, along with their minister, Mr Barlas. Sittings,410.No house or garden. Rev. James Gibson, admitted 1841.

5. Limekilns, founded in 1784. Sittings of New Church (built in 1825), 1056. A house, rebuilt 1841. Rev. William Johnston, admitted 1823.

6. Crossgates, founded in May 1803. Sittings, 530. A house and garden. Rev. Thomas Wilson, admitted 26th November 1811.

There is one Relief Congregation, the first in Scotland, founded in 1752. Sittings of the church, North Chapel Street, 520. Stipend L.150, with a house and garden. Rev. Niel McMichael, admitted 1835, and appointed Professor of Systematic Theology and Church History 1841.

Scottish Baptist Church, founded about 1805. Sittings of church, James' Street, 310. Pastor, Mr David Dewar, since 1815, and Messrs A. Kirk and J. lnglis. Services gratuitous.

From this church there were, in 1841, two separations. The one was under Mr Blair, as their pastor, formerly home missionary, and still acting as such. The principles of this body are those of the English Baptists. They meet in the Music Hall, North Inglis Street. The other was of persons who take the designation of " Christians" from Acts xi. 26, who have no creed, oral or written, but the Bible. They are usually styled Campbellites, after a Mr Campbell in America, to whose opinions regarding the influence of the Spirit and instrumentality of the Word, in conversion, they are understood to be favourable. They have as yet no pastor, and meet in the Old Mason Lodge, Maygate.

Congregational or Independent Church, founded in 1841. Place of worship opened in Canmore Street, 2d Jan. 1842. Sittings about 700. Stipend, L.100. Present minister, Rev. George Thomson.

Holy Catholic Apustolic Congregation, commonly called Rowite or Irvingite, from the general conformity of their opinions and government to those of the religious community so named, founded in 1835. Their pastor is the Rev. William Cannan, who at present resides in Dundee, and occasionally visits them. In his absence two elders conduct public worship, and dispense tbe sacraments. They meet at present in a room in Horsemarket. Street. The pastor has no fixed salary, but provision is made for him, partly from funds contributed by tbe united body, in aid of weak congregations.

Roman Catholic Congregation, founded in 1823. Having no resident priest, tbey meet in tbe dwelling-houses of two of their members, who conduct the usual services, but of course do not perform mass.

Scottish Episcopal (Trinity) Chapel.Founded in 1840. Sittings, 342 in the low area, and, if fitted up with galleries, about 500. Present stipend, L.100. Rev. T. B. Field, admitted December 1841.

There are also a few Swedenborgians, Unitarians. Methodists, and Friends; but the last three have no separate meetings for worship.

The stipends of the Dissenting ministers are dependent upon the promise, affection, or liberality or their people, although generally paid according to the amount which has been specified. The population of the parish, as taken in March 1836, and reported to the Religious Instruction Commissioners, without challenge, in 1838, was as follows :-

1. Belonging to the Established Church, 7006

2. Known to belong to other religious denominations, 9776

3. Not known to belong to any religious denomination, 504

Total, .17,286

The total number of schools, in 1814; in the original or quoad civilia parish, exclusive of North Queensferry, was 32. There is no parochial, but there is one burgh school. Of the others, there are 15 partly endowed, and 6 unendowed. One school in town is supported, in part., by a society of ladies. The endowment in general consists either of a salary or a free school room, or one or both of these, and a free dwelling-house. The unendowed schools are entirely on the teachers' own adventure. The total number of teachers at all these schools was 37, and of scholars, exclusive of those attending evening schools, 2622, or about 1 in 7 of the population, a considerable improvement since March 1842, when it was only about 1 in 8.

There are two infant and five female schools in the parish. There is connected with the large female school in High Street, Dunfermline, a deposit fund, for aiding the poor in procuring clothes, one-third more being added to the amount of their own contributions, and repaid in clothing.

At the Rolland, or Priory Lane School, there are between 180 or 190 children taught, almost all of the working and poorer classes, the fee for English reading being only 2s. per quarter. It is under the direction of the magistrates and council, who, by a late arrangement with the burgh creditors, hold it as trustees for the institution, unaffectable now for burgh debts.

At the MacLean School, Golfdrum, opened in 1842, the fees are on a low and graduated scale, to suit the working and poorer classes.

There are from 30 to 40 children taught gratuitously at this school, on a legacy of the late Rev. Allan McLean, minister of the parish, out of whose funds, with some aid from Government, this educational establishment was erected. The legacy consists of a dwelling-house and some ground, both adjacent to the school ; the rent and feus of which go to the purpose specified. It is under the management of the kirk-session of the Abbey Church.

The children taught gratis receive the same branches of education with those who pay. The total number attending the schools is about 200.

At all the collieries there are excellent schools, and as the payments are now made universal and compulsory, there is a much more regular attendance than formerly.

A few years ago, four or five deaf and dumb children, belonging to the parish, were taught in Holland School for two years and a half, by a deaf and dumb young woman, also a native of it, who had previously received a good education in the Edinburgh Institution. The experiment, which was undertaken by the writer, from inability to procure funds for sending so many of these helpless children to a public institution, and persevered in by him amid many discouragements, succeeded far beyond his expectations, and evinced the entire practicability of the deaf and dumb teaching others, in the same unhappy condition. The want of a sufficient supply of suitable books and other materials prevented the experiment being carried to its full extent; but funds coming to be at his disposal, from a bequest of his late colleague, some of the children were sent to the deaf and dumb institution in Glasgow, who made very rapid progress in their further education, and in religious knowledge and character.

Till 1815, there was a voluntary assessment laid annually upon the heritors resident and non-resident, in proportion to their respective valued rents, and made over to the kirk-session, to be distributed to the poor on their list, among whom were a few Dissenters. The average amount of this assessment for ten years, extending from January 1807 to January 1817, was nearly L.300, and the average annual amount of collections in the parish church and chapel of ease, during the same period, was L.71, from which, and the money obtained from burying ground, along with the rents of a little property in the hands of the kirk-session, about 100 paupers were supported. The Dissenters at that time generally maintained their own poor. In 1815, a Voluntary Association for support of the poor was formed, managed by a committee of heritors, ministers, and inhabitants of all religious denominations; the funds of which were raised by subscriptions from the heritors and householders, from annual collections in the chapel of ease and dissenting churches, and from one general annual collection, at a sermon preached for the purpose, in one of the largest churches. The kirk.session did not enter into this Association, but retained their own collections and property, the proceeds of which they distributed among as many poor of the Establishment as these funds would allow of.

The present prison has lately been enlarged, and much improved in its arrangements and security, but is still deficient in accommodation.

The following tables may be interesting and useful :-

A new and more commodious prison, the want of which has been long felt, is nearly finished, at the north-west corner of the town-green. It consists of three floors, each having six cells for criminal prisoners, well ventilated, and heated by flues. One on each flat has a fire-place. There are two commodious cells, with fire-places, for civil prisoners, and three apartments for the gaoler and matron, besides kitchen, bath-room, &c., for the prison. There are three corridors, or long passages, for exercise. The means for a complete classification and separation of prisoners are afforded, and the system, it is intended, will be put in force. The site contains two imperial acres, all of which will be enclosed, and part of it will be appropriated to an airing court. The new prison has been erected, and, like the old since 1840, will be governed under the regulations of the new Jail Act. It has cost about L.2070, assessed upon the county generally.

List of Individuals brought before the Police Court, from 1st November 1841 till 1st November 1842 and 1843, with their Offences, and amount of Fines realized.

From this list it appears that simple disorderliness and theft have been on the decrease, and that drunkenness with disorderliness has been considerably on the increase, during this last year.

The number of licensed houses for selling spirits, ales, &c., including shops in which groceries are also sold, were, for the last five years, as follows :

The fuel used is almost entirely coal, and is procured in abundance and of good quality in the parish, at various prices, of which a full account has been given, when treating of the collieries. There is little or no peat in this parish or vicinity, and there are perhaps few trees remaining of the ancient Forest of Dunfermline, in which Sir William Wallace found a safe retreat when pursued by his enemies.