IN introducing to the public the First Edition of the PAROCHIAL DIRECTORY of FIFE AND KINROSS, the Publisher begs to state that the work has been in contemplation for several years; and that nothing but a deep sense of the labour and responsibility attending such an undertaking, has prevented its earlier appearance. Now, that the intention has been matured, he hopes that his labours will be generally appreciated.
The Publisher expects that a work of such general utility as a Parochial Directory for the two Counties, will commend itself to the patronage of the public. Indeed, the interest taken in the undertaking, and the assistance so heartily rendered by all classes, place its success beyond a doubt; and he embraces this opportunity of returning his thanks to those gentlemen who gave their aid in getting up the various Parochial Lists, and correcting the Proofs, In particular, he begs to express his special thanks to William Patrick, Esq., Assessor of Lands and Heritages for the County of Fife, who most materially lessened his labours by placing at his disposal the Valuation Rolls made up by him; and otherwise tendered such help as only one having a thorough knowledge of the County could give.
The Publisher is aware that, although every effort has been made to secure such a measure of accuracy as to make the undertaking worthy of the two Counties, some typographical and other errors will be found in the body of the work; but he hopes that they will not interfere with its general usefulness; and he rests satisfied that those who can best appreciate the difficulties attending the getting up of such a work, will be the most ready to overlook those minor faults which could scarcely be avoided in the first issue of such a publication. He is also aware that objections may be made to the manner in which some portions of the Directory are classified, but every suggestion for its improvement, will be thankfully received and made use of in future editions.
It is to be regretted that, owing to various obstacles, the publication of the Directory has been delayed considerably beyond the period originally anticipated. That delay has rendered an Appendix necessary, in order to correct the earlier printed portions, so as to bring it as nearly as possible down to the date of publication. Those, therefore, who may require to consult the Directory regarding any particular Parish, should also refer to the Appendix, and note the changes therein indicated. Arrangements will be made by which such an expedient will be rendered unnecessary in future.
It is to be hoped that the historical and topographical Introductions to the various Parishes, though not necessary for the purposes of a Directory, and though adding somewhat to the cost, will prove to many not its least attractive feature. While the information therein contained has been carefully abridged from the statistical account of Scotland, the various Gazeteers, &c., an intimate knowledge of nearly every district of the two Counties, has enabled the Publisher to correct a number of the mistakes, and at the same time add to the information contained in those older books of reference.
During the progress of the work, the question has repeatedly been put, as to the intervals at which it is intended to issue the Directory, and the present opportunity is embraced of stating that the frequency of the publication will altogether depend upon the wishes of the public. It is likely that another edition will be published at the end of two years, and the amount of encouragement then received, will decide as to whether it will, thereafter, be an Annual, a Biennial, or a Triennial publication.
It is hoped that the beautiful Map, drawn and engraved for the Directory, by the Messrs W. & A. K. Johnston, of Edinburgh, will still further increase its usefulness and enhance its value.
(Unfortunately we do not have the map).
CUPAR- FIFE, January, 1862.
FIFESHIRE.
DESCRIPTION AND EARLY HISTORY.
FIFE is an extensive and important County on the eastern side of Scotland; it is in the form of a peninsula, having the waters of the Firth of Forth on the south, the German Ocean on the east, and on the north the Tay, which separates it from Forfarshire; on the west it is bounded in a very irregular manner by Kinross-shire, Clackmannanshire, and parts of Perthshire. Its greatest length from west to east is about 43 miles, and its greatest breadth 21 miles. Its total area is estimated by various writers, at from about 298,000, to 322,000 acres, of which fully three-fourths are under cultivation. The County lies between 56° 3' and 56° 25', north latitude. At an early period the district of Fife, including Kinross-shire, Clackmannanshire, parts of Perthshire, and perhaps part of Stirlingshire, was designated Ross, a term signifying a peninsula, and seems to have been under one jurisdiction. Different events conspired to break up this ample territory into, at least, three distinct counties. The small shire of Clackmannan was first separated, and about the year 1426, another portion was cut off, and entitled Kinross, a name importing the head of the peninsula. It has been well remarked, "That such changes have had no effect in retarding the prosperity of the County, although a better division might easily have been made." From its compact nature and partial independence of support from without, it was the custom to designate it the "Kingdom of Fife," a popular phrase still retained. The ancient history of Fife, as of the other portions of Scotland, is wrapped in obscurity, and almost all we learn from Tacitus and other Roman authors is, "that the original inhabitants of the district of Ross, of which Fife forms the eastern part, were named the Horestii, a Celtic tribe." It is said that they had no towns in Fife, but they had numerous hill forts all over the County, and their remains are still to be traced on the hills of Dunearn, Carnock, Craigluscar, and Saline, also, in the Ochils, in the parishes of Strathmiglo and Newburgh. Evidence of the struggles of these early Celts with their Roman invaders, is to be found in the circumstance, that in these forts both British and Roman remains have been discovered, proving that the strongholds of the Horestii had been captured by the Romans, and afterwards used by them for the purposes of safety and defence. Little is known of the history of the district after the invasions of the Romans, further than that the Picts are next heard of as the inhabitants of Fife, who, towards the close of the 9th century, finally submitted to the King of the Scots; after which we read of the Danish invasions, from which the district often suffered severely. The almost insular position of Fife, between the northern and southern divisions of the Kingdom, was of great advantage to the County, by placing it beyond the general sphere of Highland and Border warfare, by which it escaped many of the troubles which long vexed other portions of the country, and was thus enabled, at a much earlier period than other districts, to cultivate the arts of peace. It is known that for some time prior to the 11th century, the County was, in a great measure, either the property or under the potent jurisdiction of a line of Thanes, or Earls, of the name of McDuff, who, from the middle of the eleventh century to the forfeiture of the family in 1424, were among the most influential of the Scottish Peerage. The chief residences of the Earls of Fife were at Cupar and Falkland, it being on the forfeiture of Murdoch, Duke of Albany, and confiscation of his estates to the Crown, that the Palace of Falkland became the property and a residence of the Scottish Sovereigns. From various concurring evidences in history, we learn that the Peninsula of Fife was originally almost an entire forest full of swamps, as indeed was nearly all the rest of Scotland. While in the condition of a forest, it was the haunt of wild beasts, and especially boars of a large size, and it is understood that such creatures, as well as the larger animals of the chase, were not extirpated until after the reign of James V., who, like his predecessors, made Fife the scene of his hunting expeditions, while residing at the royal residence of Falkland. It is long, however, since Fife was freed from all such characteristics of a rude country.
Fife has always occupied a prominent place in the History of Scotland. Though this prominence may be owing, in some degree, to the circumstance that both a Royal residence and the ecclesiastical capital of the Kingdom were in the County, still much is owing to that energy and enterprise which for centuries have characterized the native inhabitants, who have ever proved themselves equally ready to defend or forward the best interests of their country; and in all the contests of the people for the maintenance of their civil and religious liberties, we find the "men of Fife" at their posts, and distinguishing themselves either as soldiers in the field or councillors in the cabinet. At the Reformation, the County was ever foremost in those struggles which ended in the overthrow of Popery, and in the complete ascendancy of Protestant principles.
The peninsula of Fife exhibits in its surface a series of vales, stretching from west to east, parallel with the sea on each side, and of greater and less dimensions. These vales, which in some places are not so distinct as in others, are the basins of various small streams, which are either poured into the Firth of Forth or St Andrews Bay. Fife has a bleak hilly appearance when viewed from the Edinburgh side of the Forth; but no sooner is the summit of the first rising ground reached in penetrating into the interior, than the scene is agreeably changed, and the tourist successively delighted with the view of these consecutive vales, consisting of finely cultivated braes waving downwards to the brooks in their lower parts, and diminishing in acclivity as they approach their eastern termination. The vales of the Orr and the Leven being passed, the traveller is ushered into the wide and extensive vale of the Eden, or " Howe of Fife;" through which glides, with noiseless current, the stream which gives its name to the central valley of the County. Further north the land is again hilly, though for the most part in a high state of cultivation, declining with rather a quick descent to the Firth of Tay.
AGRICULTURE, SOIL, TRADE, MINERALS, &c.
In the County are four kinds of soil, differing in quality, and generally occupying distinct tracts of country. Along the banks of the Forth, the soil is for the most part of an excellent quality, being deep rich loam on good clay, and gravel mixed with loamy earth. Northwards from the lines which bound this territory to the base of the hills on the south side of the Howe of Fife, to the western parts of the county, the soil is in general inferior; being cold, poor, and wet clay, with mosey and stony land. The Howe of Fife consists of loam, partly deep and moist, and partly light and dry, with a proportion of moor and moss, with better land at the lower end of the strath. In the hilly ground from the Howe to the Thy, the soil is in general good, having much rich loam, clay, and gravel. Of course by the constant operation of improvements, these primitive properties of the soil are in all cases, to a greater or less extent, modified, improved, or altered; and to such an extent has the practice of draining and trenching been carried on, and of applying manure, lime, guano, and other patent fertilizers to the soil, that during the last fifty years the change in the appearance of the County is almost miraculous. Land that sixty years ago was not considered fit for cultivation, now yields heavy crops, and is rented at sums that formerly would have been considered fabulous for the best land in the district,
In Minerals, the County possesses extensive fields of coal, lime, stone, and iron-stone; and for building and other purposes, the supply of both whinstone and freestone is inexhaustible, extensive quarries of the latter being wrought in the parishes of Cupar, Kemback, St Andrews, &c., sufficient not only for the wants of the several districts, but for transmission by railway to distant parts. There are also large beds of alluvial clay in almost all the districts of the County, and extensive brick and tile works are in full operation in almost every district.
For many years various branches of the linen manufacture have been extensively carried on in Fife, its chief seats being the centre and western parts of the County. The different kinds of goods made will be described in the notices appended to the different parishes. The manufacture of woollen and cotton goods in the County is very limited, linen forming the great manufacturing staple of Fife.
HILLS, RIVERS, AND RAILWAYS.
The principal hills in Fife are the West Lomond, 1500 feet high; the East Lomond, 1471 feet; Largo Law, 1020 feet, and Kelly Law, 800 feet. There are only two streams entitled to the appellation of Rivers that run through the interior of the County- the Eden and the Leven, both of which are fine fishing streams, containing abundance of trout and some salmon. Within the last 14 years, the Railway system has been extended over almost every district of the County. The Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee, with the boats on the Ferries at Burntisland and Tayport, connects the County with the shires of Mid-Lothian, Perth, and Forfar; the Dunfermline and Stirling connects the County of Fife with Clackmannan and Stirlingshires; the Fife and Kinross, and the Kinross-shire Railways, connect the County with Kinross-shire at the Ladybank and Cowdenbeath Junctions; while the St Andrews, Leven, and East of Fife branch lines connect their several districts with the main line- the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee; and when the East of Fife line is carried on to Anstruther, the whole will form a system of internal communication inferior to few counties in the Kingdom.
SOCIAL AND INTELLECTUAL PROGRESS.
During the last forty years no county has made greater social and intellectual progress than has been attained by Fife; and perhaps nothing gives that progress so much prominence as the magnitude attained by the Newspaper Press connected with the County. Previous to 1822, there was no Newspaper published in Fife, and the practice was to advertise county and other public meetings in an Edinburgh Newspaper, and a few hundreds would probably cover the sum total of every Newspaper that found an entrance into the County. At present, Fife can boast of ten weekly Newspapers and Advertising sheets, besides three with a fortnightly issue, having a total circulation of above 25,000; nor is this all, for the circulation of Edinburgh and other Newspapers not connected with the County is at present ten times more than it was when no native broad sheet existed. All this without taking into account the immense circulation of periodicals and books of every shape and size, which forty years ago had no existence, exhibits an intellectual progress penetrating to all classes of our society, and exerts an educational influence unequalled in any country or in any age of the world.
EXCERPT FROM THE 1861 PAROCHIAL DIRECTORY FOR FIFE AND KINROSS
KINROSS-SHIRE. 1861
Kinross is a small inland County situated at the western extremity of Fife, from which it was disjoined in 1426. It contains the smallest number of inhabitants of any county in Scotland. It is bounded by Perthshire on its north and west sides, and by Fifeshire on the south Larder. Its name is significant of its local situation, importing the head of the peninsula." Its length, from Auchmoor Bridge on the east to the river Devon on the west, is twelve and a half miles, and its breadth, from Damhead on the north to Kelty Bridge on the south, is nine and a half miles. Its area is about 70 square miles, or 45,000 imperial acres. The County is nearly begirt by hills, with intervening valleys between the several ranges. On the north and east are the Ochils and Lomonds, with the valley leading to Auchtermuchty between them. On the south is Benarty, cut off from the Lomonds by the pass traversed by the Leven. On the south are the Cleish Hills, between which and Benarty is a level opening traversed by the great north road; and there is a more extensive opening on the west between the Cleish Hills and the Ochils. The central part of the County is partly occupied by Loch Leven, and partly by a level tract called the Laigh of Kinross, and chiefly comprised in that parish. The general configuration of the land may be regarded as simply a variety of braes and slopes declining down from the hills to the central region. The whole face of the County, though wanting in the best features of landscape, has a rich appearance, both natural and artificial, and presents some charming landscape scenery; the chief of which is a view of Loch Leven from the rising ground on the eastern boundary. The northern part is drained by the Farg, and by the head streams of the Eden; a small portion on the west by the Devon; all the central parts by the North and South Quiech, and the Gairney, which all fall into Loch Leven; and on the southern border by the Kelty, a head stream of the Orr.
Coal, though not found in the County, is wrought on the adjoining south border, near Kelty. Limestone in plenty is found on the East Lomond; sandstone of excellent quality is wrought in Cleish; and red sandstone abounds to the north of Kinross. Extensive plantations were begun in 1733, on the Blairadam estate, on the southern border, and now occupy about 1.300 acres. The climate, owing to the elevation of the land, and to the peculiar influence of the encircling hills, is cold and wet; but has of late years been much improved by draining, and is upon the whole considered healthy.
The soil of the greater portion of the County is dry, resting on a sharp gravel; but a considerable part of it is of a moorish quality. The number of small proprietors, as compared with the extent of the County, is much greater than in Fife; and many a farm constitutes an entire property, occupied and worked by its proprietor. Owing to this and other circumstances, Kinross was later and slower in the start of modern agricultural improvement than the neighbouring counties; and, until a comparatively recent period, it was to a considerable extent wild and barren. But after agricultural improvements were fairly entered upon, so rapid was the progress, that it is now little behind other districts similarly situated as to soil and climate.
The manufactures of the County, excepting in the ordinary departments of handicraft, are of comparatively small amount, and will be noticed under the several parochial divisions. In the entire County there are only the towns of Kinross and Milnathort, and the villages of Maryburgh, Scotland Well, Kinnesswood, Middleton, Crook-of-Devon, and Duncrivie, and parts of Damhead and Kelty. There is no Burgh within the County, but it unites with Clackmannanshire in returning a Member to Parliament. The County comprises only four complete parochial divisions, and parts of three other parishes, and is joined with Clackmannanshire under one Sheriff-Depute; but there is a resident Sheriff-Substitute at Kinross, where the Sheriff courts are held.
The ancient history of the County is all identified with that of Fife, and its modern history is not possessed of much interest. Up to 1426, it formed part of Fifeshire; and when erected, that year, into a separate county, it comprised only the parishes of Kinross, Orwell, and Portmoak. In 1685, it was further enlarged by the addition of Cleish, Tulliebole (now part of Fossoway), and part of Arngask, Fossoway, and Forgandenny; yet, though made a separate county, it was, until 1807, kept under the jurisdiction of the same Sheriff as Fifeshire, at which period the counties of Clackmannan and Kinross were united under one Sheriffdom.
By far the finest feature in the landscape is Loch Leven, in the south-eastern part of the County. It receives, as we have already said, the waters of the North and South Queich, and the Gairney, and discharges its surplus water by the Leven on the east. It has an elevation of above 350 feet above the level of the sea, and its annual average fluctuation in height is about three feet. Its form is somewhat of an oval, the longer axis extending east-south-eastwards. It is between eight and nine miles in circumference, with an area of about 4000 acres. A partial drainage was effected about thirty years ago, under an Act of Parliament, which reduced its size by about one-fifth: the land recovered, however, chiefly on the eastern side, is not of much agricultural value. The medium depth of the Lake is now about 14 feet. Its trout have always been famed for their fine flavour and peculiar high colour; and the lovers of the gentle art, during the season, come from considerable distances to ply their vocation on the beautiful expanse of water. There are several small islets in the lake, but the only two worth notice are St Serfs and the Castle Island. The former is in the south-east, with an area of about 80 acres. In ancient times a Priory stood on it, dedicated to St Serf, the first superior of which, or of the Culdee establishment which preceded it, is said to have borne the name of Moak, or St Moak, and from whom it is alleged that the name of the parish in which the Priory was situated, is derived, viz. :-Portmoak. Some remains of the Priory still exist, but the islet is now inhabited only by a few sheep and cattle. At a recent period its appearance was improved by the transportation of a quantity of soil to it, and the planting of some trees.
The Castle Island, rendered famous by having been for eleven months the prison of Queen Mary, has an area of about 5 acres. Its size was much increased by the draining operations, and it seemed to rise, as it were, from out of the water. The original Castle on this island, or the fortalice in which it had its origin, is alleged to have been built by Congal, the son of Dogbart, the king of the Picts. In the wars which harassed Scotland during the minority of David II., it was held in the patriotic interest by Allan De Vipont, against the troops of Edward III., who acted in behalf of Edward Baliol. The English blockaded it unsuccessfully; but the Monkish story of their attempting to drown the garrison by erecting immense barriers to the egress of the water by the Leven, must be a pure fiction. The Castle, as we have said, derives its chief historical interest from its being the scene of the imprisonment of Queen Mary, after her surrender to the confederate Lords at Carberry Hill. Sir Robert Douglas, who was proprietor of the castle and surrounding lands in the 16th century, being connected by blood with some of the national leaders at that stormy period, was selected as the Queen's jailer; and she was imprisoned here on the 16th of June, 1567, and escaped on the 2d of May following, by the aid of a son of her keeper. The Castle with its court-yard occupied a considerable part of the area of the island, and the garden occupied most of the remainder. The great Tower, or Keep of the Castle, stood in the north corner of the court-yard, on the side of the island next Kinross. It is of the usual square form, four stories in height, the walls being upwards of six feet thick. The entrance is in the second story, which must have been reached by an outside stair, having probably a drawbridge at top; but all vestiges of this stair have disappeared. The door opened at once into the great hall of the Castle, which occupied the whole second flat of the building. Immediately within the doorway is a square opening, which led into the vaults beneath. The two upper stories seem to have been occupied as bedchambers. The court-yard, which was surrounded by high walls, flanked at the corners by towers, contained a variety of buildings for the accommodation of the family and the garrison. The appearance of the ruins, as seen from the shore, now tends to create mournful feelings in the breast of the spectator.